Uniform Journal SS004
A roundup of recent inspiration, key industry changes, and my thoughts on the sportswear trend.
In this latest installment, I discussed some of the things I have been listening to and reading for the last several weeks, while hard at work on a project that I’ll be announcing soon. Mike McLachlan of Manresa is doing some really inspiring work, I’m really digging his approach to making clothes for real life. My discussion around the diversity problem in luxury fashion moves forward, but it's a long road. I also discuss James Jeter's promotion at Polo Ralph Lauren, a continuing fight against deadstock, and Nike's switch at the top. Plus, nod to sportswear-inspired designs popping up in fashion.
Podcasts I’ve listened to…
I’m going to start adding a link dump for podcasts to the journal entries. In some instances, they spark future ideas, validate, or challenge my thoughts on certain topics. Whenever you have the time, these are all worth the listen.
Blamo!
Mike McLachlan of Manresa
Mike is doing amazing things with Manresa, I’ll keep saying it, but the 207 jeans are still my favorite pair to wear (next to my vintage 501s). It was cool hearing about his journey into the industry and the inspiration behind the designs. My favorite was the conversation around making clothes for things you actually do. There’s an energy that surrounds the brand and when it comes from an organic place. Shouts out to Jeremy Kirkland — you can always count on a good conversation when he’s on the mic.
Bof Debrief: Luxury Fashions Diversity Problem
This isn’t just a fashion problem, but fashion easily one of the most polarizing when it comes to diversity. Dismantle DEI programs and departments all you want, but that just means there’s an added responsibility for those at the top. [Me speaking to them] You have to live a diverse life and surround yourselves with people who don’t look and think the same way you do, otherwise, nothing will change. This was an interesting conversation though, nothing you haven’t heard before, but necessary to keep the dialogue going in an effort to make change.
Bof Debrief: Why Does Menswear All Look The Same
There’s a new playbook being written in men’s fashion and most brands are happy sticking to it because they can (for now). Marketing strategies and design aesthetics have been proven and the need for true identity isn’t really necessary, especially if people are still buying it. How should consumers respond? Will all of the “hot” brands of today be around 5, 10, 20, 30 years from now? Should we be asking for more, or is it all a necessary part of the game? I for one just don’t buy it, but I’m in the minority. Definitely worth the listen.
James Jeter new CD at Polo Ralph Lauren
James M. Jeter was recently promoted to Creative Director, Design & Brand Direction for Men's Polo at Ralph Lauren and is the first Black Creative Director in the 57 year history of Polo Ralph Lauren. This happened post NYFW, so the RL show took center stage, but his IG bio is updated and he seems to be excited and ready for his new role. Looking forward to seeing what this chapter of Polo will look like. If it’s anything like the designs and storytelling that released with his HBCU-inspired collection, the brand is in good hands.
How the fashion industry is grappling with "deadstock"
CBS News posted this during NYFW and thought it was a good follow up to my previous entry that discussed how California is approaching the waste issue in fashion. This video highlights a convenient and transparent recycling and reuse fabric service called Fab Scrap. Their mission is to maximize the value of unused fabric and consider themselves to be an affordable and accessible materials resource. Something to consider if you’re in the business of making apparel. Their annual report from 2023 is also worth a skim.
The Man Who Made Nike Uncool
I laughed pretty hard when this article came out, cause the media seemed to be done with John Donahoe. It’s funny to me when there’s a clear agenda and all parties are working together until it happens. That’s what this felt like. I don’t recall any positive news about this guy in the last calendar year, but the recent news was painting a clear picture for the future of the Swoosh. Clearly Nike was over him too, and the campaign to oust him succeeded before I could post about it. I was going back & forth in my DMs with people about Nike’s future and made a comment regarding John Donahoe saying, “if it was up to me, he’d be gone today” and to my surprise he was out the next day. There’s been a ton of discourse, before and after this announcement of a change at the CEO position. Bobby Hundreds wrote The Case for Nike right after this Bloomberg article was posted, and I’ve previously shared my thoughts on the need to diversify plus innovate the offering. Overall, Nike just needs to get back to their core of sport first and forget about the data for little. There’s been a lot of praise about Nike Veteran, Elliott Hill, returning to the brand to takeover the position. I’m sure we have all seen the screenshot of his LinkedIn work history. I’ll reserve my thoughts on that for now, but will leave you with the following—“yesterday's home runs don't win today's games.” - Babe Ruth
The Monroe County History Center presents Illustrating Identity: Senior Cords in Monroe County
Avery Trufelman tweeted about this Illustrating Identity exhibit the other day and I thought it was pretty cool. It’s always interesting to read about the origins of a sartorial tradition. I’ve seen everyone from Bode to Ralph Lauren release a version and have an ongoing dialogue with myself about what a UJ take on this would be. I’ll get back to that soon.
Speaking of which—has anyone else noticed the rise in sportswear, physical ed. designs and logo lockups?
My love of sports and vintage Champion really inspired my initial Gym Clothes collection and have remained a part of the Uniform Journal brand identity, but over the last 6 months, I noticed them popping up everywhere. Obviously they’ve always existed, but it has made me step back and evaluate the space more. I feel like we’re approaching trend/aesthetic levels with what I’m seeing lately. It’s easy to spot who is doing it to do it and when it’s a natural part of the brand dna. Enjoy the elementary bball photo.
Listen when Pharrell speaks…
Holler at me.
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