Uniform Journal SS005
Fashion’s Shifting Grounds: Ownership, Legacy, and the latest in retail news
In this newsletter, I touch on how publicly traded department stores fail to put consumers over profits and why some are going private in a bid to regain relevance. A deep conversation with James Whitner explores the lack of Black ownership in streetwear, and I briefly unpack the sale of Off-White on Virgil Abloh's birthday and reflect on its legacy. Plus, I spotlight some exciting new releases, from Stray Rats x Bounty Hunter and more.
Podcasts and discussions I’ve listened to…
The Debrief | Can Department Stores Save Themselves?
More and more, we’re realizing the negative effects of being a publicly traded company. Decisions aren’t being made in favor of the consumers or the brands they carry. Decisions are rooted in profit & losses and what will favor or keep the board and investors happy. This episode takes inventory of what’s happening in the department store space and how some are seeking to go private to get back on top.
PLEASE EXPLAIN by Complex: James Whitner Discusses Why There is a Lack of Black Ownership in Streetwear
This is honestly one of the best interviews/conversations that I have listened to in a long time. And I listen to a lot. A deep dive into the mind of a Black owner — this conversation resonated with me on so many levels. From the storytelling to the vision for the future, it’s clear that A Ma Maniére is here to stay.
"Please Explain Hosted by Aria Hughes" is an explainer show about culture, fashion, and music that brings context, not confusion, to the internet.
James Whitner, owner and founder of The Whitaker Group, which includes popular boutiques A Ma Maniére, Social Status, and APB, sits down with Aria Hughes, Complex's Editor-in-Chief, to discuss his case being over, the lack of Black ownership in streetwear, and what's wrong with the sneaker market.
Ghetto Runways Episode 6 - Don C
There aren’t enough kind words I can say about Don C. He’s honestly one of the most genuine and kind dudes I’ve ever met. His impact on the culture isn’t talked about enough. This conversation definitely needs to be watched.
Long live Karl Lagerfeld. This image has so much more meaning now.
LVMH sells 60% of Off White to Bluestar on Virgil’s birthday
Okay look. I’ve got a lot to say on this. And I think I need to write something longer at a later date, but I had to say something since I haven’t written an entry since this news broke. I spoke on the fact that things have been on a rapid decline since Virgil’s passing in UJSS03. Off White was and still is a necessary brand in my opinion, but things have just taken too much of a departure from the core for me to still care. The announcement taking place on Virgil’s birthday was unfortunate, as much as some think it was intentional, I believe there’s a world where a deal took place and was announced without even thinking about what day it was. Crazy coincidence and super shitty if it was known and still released, but I said the below on X…
I don’t know what needs to happen for people to understand that these brands do not care about us or anything we care about. The news breaking on V’s bday was a bummer, but at the end of the day people need to stop expecting these companies & billionaires to have a heart.
A lot of times our feelings and emotions are attached to the best of something. There’s no denying that Off White and Virgil changed the game. It’s tough to watch something that used to be great, not be great anymore — see Jordan on the Wizards, Shaq on the Celtics, etc. We always want the story to end on a high note and for the main characters to ride off into the sunset unscathed. I’m not confident that Bluestar Alliance will do the brand justice, especially seeing the other brands on their roster. If the family was still in charge, I could see shutting it down and cementing its legacy without damaging it further, but since that’s not the case — I am just hoping for the best.
Loafer Beef: Hartcopy is caught in the crossfire
Is anything original any more. I frequently apply Virgil’s 3% rule to my design work. But I think brands have gotten a little too comfortable running with an idea 1:1 just because it’s been off the shelf for a couple of years. While no idea is original and animal patterns + horse bits have been seen on loafers for decades, this one felt a little cheap — in more ways than one. All you need to do is read through the comments in this Hartcopy post to see what happened between Blackstock & Weber and Duke + Dexter. All I will say is Duke + Dexter needs to try a little harder if “Made Different” is gonna be the tagline.
Stussy coming back to NY
Nature is healing. Stussy is set to reopen a door in NY after closing up shop at their previous location, now Denim Tears, in 2023. Retail is coming back and I can’t wait. I’m spoiled in LA, we’ve got a pretty healthy retail scene here, but I’m happy to see NY getting back to full strength again.
Fast fashion as durable as luxury… Hmmmm
I had to chuckle at this one, but you can read it for yourself. Definitely a “Fast Fashion isn’t that bad” study, paid for by Fast Fashion. While Primark didn’t conduct the study themselves, I’m sure they influenced the outcome in their favor. Along with retailers such as Zara and H&M, Primark contributes to the contemporary fast fashion trend. According to an article about Primark in The Economist, "For many shoppers, Primark has an irresistible offer: trendy clothes at astonishingly low prices. While I’m sure there are some great quality items at an affordable price, and some not so great items that are expensive, it’s not as simple as “but are products are kinda the same”. There’s a huge responsibility when it comes to how these items are being produced, their impact on the environment, and especially the materials being used—most being synthetic in the fast fashion space. The conversation is way more nuanced than this report shows and we should all do our part in doing our own research and not being swayed by a not-so-independent study.
Releases on my radar:
J.Crew x Engineered Garments. Haven’t seen the full collection yet, but I’m sure it’ll be solid. Drops tomorrow.
Palace x Beams+ are joining forces for the first time and it’s really good.
Stray Rats x Bounty Hunter. This one feels new and old at the same time. Julian really knows how to collaborate.
Bricks & Wood New Balace 1906U. Another solid release from the B&W crew, they’ve really started to carve their own lane in the sneaker game. NB has to be on of the top sneaker brands in the collaboration space at the moment.
Basketcase ‘Alphabet’ collection. Zach is back at it — been waiting for this hoodie to drop. Football top is looking cool too.
Honolulu Pawnshop just dropped a really cool collection, most of it has sold out, but there are a few items still available online.
Old Navy ’94 Reissue. If every other mall brand can make a comeback, why can’t Old Navy? I’m here for it. Never hurts to have a couple of extra fleece items in the closet.
Holler at me.
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