Uniform Journal SS006
From Gap's new direction to the rise of luxury dupes
The latest UJSS roundup explores the evolving landscape of fashion, from unexpected career moves to shifting consumer behaviors. Zac Posen makes waves with his surprising pivot to Gap Inc.'s creative director, while "dupe culture" challenges luxury's stronghold as consumers seek quality alternatives at accessible price points. We also dive into Tremaine Emory and Marc Jacobs' creative dialogue, H&M's latest H2 drop with Heron Preston, and the ongoing debate about artist merch quality. Plus, catch up on who took the top spot in the Q3 Lyst Index.
The BoF Podcast | How Zac Posen is Reenergising Gap Inc.
Veteran fashion designer Zac Posen took a surprise career pivot and joined Gap Inc. as creative director earlier this year. In this interview with Business of Fashion's Imran Amed, below, Posen reflects on his transition from running his own luxury label-known for red carpet glamour and celebrity clientele-to a new role overseeing creative direction for Gap's portfolio of brands.
After shuttering his namesake brand in 2019, Posen aligned with the new CEO of Gap Inc., Richard Dickson, to discover a new challenge: injecting heritage American brands like Gap, Old Navy, Banana Republic, and Athleta with fresh cultural relevance and excitement. While some think this is an odd pairing and that it’s not Zac, I get it. But what we want for someone may not always be what they want for themselves. Regardless, GAP needs something to start driving more interest, so I’m with it.
How Dupe Culture is Challenging Traditional Luxury
These days, luxury prices have gotten so out of hand that even people with some disposable income are thinking twice about splurging. That's where a new wave of brands is stepping in with a clever solution: high-quality "dupes." This episode of The Debrief from The Business of Fashion is about just that.
Companies like Quince and Italic are taking a different approach. Though it’s been seen it before, especially in the DTC boom (see: Everlane), we haven’t seen the side by side comparison in the marketing. Instead of mysterious markups, they show you exactly what you're paying for—from materials to manufacturing. For folks watching their bills climb every week, this transparency feels like a breath of fresh air. Plus, if you've been on TikTok or Instagram lately, you've probably seen influencers raving about these affordable alternatives, making dream items feel within reach again.
I’m on the fence with this one, because I’ve always wanted the real thing or nothing. It’s rare that I’m on the quest for “a look” but for less, which is ultimately what this is. In addition to the look, people want the logo, the quality, the brand story. If a company is offering an item that I’m on the hunt for—regardless of brand, and it’s high quality at a lower than market price, I’m willing to try. But, I’m not beginning my search with I want that but I can’t afford it so I’ll just get this. Reminds me of all the “we have that at home” memes, at least that’s how I feel.
Ultimately, these dupe brands will have to start moving beyond the price. "The next step is identifying unique storytelling and product value," says Morris, since it will distinguish them further and take them away from being just the cheaper alternative in an ever-evolving market. After all, nobody wants to be known as just the budget version of something else, right?
Tremaine Emory & Marc Jacobs
If you’ve ever seen an interview with Tremaine, you’ll know how pivotal his time in the Marc Jacobs stockroom was in shaping his career and friendships in fashion. Hearing Marc speak is always a pleasure—his career trajectory and ongoing passion bring such fresh energy to the brand, even after all these years. Still bummed I didn’t get the Futura Pointman Necklace.
The main reason for this chat was to celebrate Jacobs' 40th anniversary and sharing some insight into the collaborative process behind their latest bag—a fresh take on Marc’s classic Tote Bag that has since sold out. While the conversation didn't break new ground, it was good to hear their perspectives on design, the current pulse of fashion, and the relationships that have shaped it.
Speaking of Marc, if you’ve never watched this documentary, I suggest you do so asap.
Wake up babe, the new Lyst Index for Q3 just dropped
The luxury space isn’t something that I pay a ton of attention to, but I’m aware of what’s going on. On Lyst’s Q3 Index, Miu Miu moves up to the #1 spot, while Loewe drops one to #2 (from the Q2 results). NN.07 having +142% rise in demand definitely caught my eye as well—my guess is everyone if looking for the Gael 8267 Wool Blend Shirt Jacket now that cold weather is upon us. Check it out and see if any of your favorites are in the mix.
H2 Drop 2
In you've been living under a rock, Heron Preston teamed up with H&M for a little thing called H2. Their 2nd drop happened last week and is faring decently. The multi-faceted collaboration is purposed to marry accessibility with elevated and sustainable design. The staple items are gender-neutral and all designed for longevity, adaptable to style types. Based on the "power of two," the campaign deals in connectivity, conversation, and personal individuality—all things that fall under H2's umbrella of fashion for all. I have the sweats and one of the jerseys from the first drop, but the Y2K is turned up too much for me. The bombers are the standout, along with his jersey tops, but this new addition of sneaker feels a little forced, especially at the price point of $220 plus. It’s worth taking a look though, the potential paths and innovations this collaboration could forge are promising.
Asics x Nonnative Gel Terrain
No words needed. Just look at them. They dropped last week, but only +50 on the resale.
Why Do Artist Neglect Their Merch
Undiscovered.IG recently posed a question I completely agree with: if you’re an artist, why wouldn’t you want quality across the board? That goes for everything from the music to the merch. Not everyone wants to be a fashion designer, but most artists and their teams could step it up. If you’re not invested in making quality merch, don’t do it. Fans are already making bootleg merch, often with more care, and I'd rather support that.
Personally, I think bundling merch with albums was a mistake. These bundles shift focus from artistry to profit, diluting the album’s creative value. Fans buy merch to support artists and for exclusivity, while artists and labels often prioritize volume over quality.
Low-quality or delayed merch erodes trust. Fans feel undervalued if items arrive months late or don’t meet expectations, making them less likely to buy again. Eventually, this weakens loyalty and reduces support for future projects.
The issues are real though—Travis Scott’s Utopia finishes were inconsistent, Kanye’s Vultures merch felt cheap, and Playboi Carti’s Narcissist graphics were undersized. My take? Skip it. Unless I’ve seen it in person or trust the brand’s quality, I’d rather buy a hat or tee from an artist I know cares.
Holler at me.
Email me at info@uniformjournal.com
Follow me on Twitter
Follow me on Instagram